September 9, 2013 by Janna Roznos
My Burda quest continues . . .
From the September Burda Style Magazine:
I chose this blouse to sew:
Burda describes this as the ‘classical men’s style shirt’ with all the elements of a great button up shirt: standing collar, shoulder yokes, back pleat, etc. In other words, it’s the ‘boyfriend’s’ shirt.
This garment is group size: 34/36, 38/40, 42/44. I usually sew a 42 in Burda blouses but since this is the boyfriend shirt (oversized!) I dropped down a size and traced the 38/40.
I used a cotton shirt material I had in my stash. This fabric was some of the ‘free’ fabric I was given several months ago.
Since I feel over confident in my fitting abilities I decided to forgo a muslin and just tissue fitted the pattern on myself and then cut into the fashion fabric.
Well over confident I was. I think I could have gone down even to the smallest size (34/36) but of course, now that I have completed sewn the garment (included the french seams) I am not picking it apart. I will be just wearing the shirt as is.
A few complaints/mistakes:
1) I didn’t cut the selvedge off on the center front. The selvedge edge is pink. Do you know where I am going with this? The selvedge edge can be seen through the folded fabric at center front. Yep! Bet you didn’t see that one coming. So, to remedy this mistake, I made it man style and put the button holes on the right side and the buttons on the left side.
2) I made the button holes the wrong direction on the cuffs although I think I would be the only one who notices that.
3) I made the yoke a two piece on the back cut on the bias, however, by doing this the stripes don’t match in the front.
4) I was unable to get a buttonhole in the collar stand. I did try- twice. After the second mess of buttonhole I gave up.
5) The sleeves are about an inch too long for me. If I had sewn a muslin I would have known this. If I had even measure the sleeve pattern I probably could have figured out the sleeve was going to be too long!
Okay so those are my mistakes/complaints/oops!/what was I thinking list of issues with this blouse.
Now two other issues:
1) I did add sleeve vents on the bias, which I think is a nice design element.
2) The buttons I used are from my button stash. I had bought these the last time I was at the Bead Show in Pasadena (last July I think) and I found them in my button stash.
Hard to image finding anything in this mess.
So what’s the conclusion with this blouse?
I love it.
First, this cotton shirt fabric is wonderful to sew and to wear. I would suspect it is almost all cotton, maybe a touch of polyester because it breathes but doesn’t wrinkle the way 100% cotton does.
The blouse is voluminous – not fitted one bit. It is comfortable and even those too long sleeves, I just roll them up anyway.
I wore it yesterday while out walking my dog – it was only 90 degrees F (about 32 degrees C) and the blouse was cool and comfortable.
And, besides, it is a ‘boyfriend’s shirt, so it surely isn’t going to fit me like a woman’s blouse.
Here’s the back view – just in case you wanted to see that, too.
Would I make this again? Perhaps, I might. But before I do that, I think I would try making muslin of the smaller size and see how that fits me.
Now, I only have to wait until Burda November arrives in my mailbox. Can’t wait!