August 19, 2013 by Janna Roznos
Sometimes in sewing I just need a quick, easy project to regain my momentum and sewing equilibrium. And, that is Vogue 8746.
This is a stylish blouse where the bust darts have been rotated to the shoulders in a soft pleat. I was going to sew up a quick and dirty muslin, but didn’t. Yes, I know. I broke my cardinal rule of sewing: Always make a muslin.
I didn’t bother with a muslin since I was using ‘free’ fabric that I recently welcomed into my home. Actually, this ‘new-to-me’ fabric is stacked on my laundry table in the basement right now since my fabric closet is crammed to capacity.
I have no idea what this fabric is other than it does launder well and has a nice drape.
I did ‘tissue fit’ the blouse and added 1” side seams. I used a size 12 for the shoulder area and transitioned to a size 14 for the hips, which is what I usually do for a Vogue pattern.
The buttons I used are from my stash. For the sleeve I sewed a vent instead of the little bias strip. I find sewing the bias strips much to fiddly for my skills.
I know the fabric looks blue in this picture but it’s not. Not sure what happened here with the cell phone camera.
Since I have a broad and rounded back – lucky me!? I usually always add a yoke and then manipulate the yoke seam / back seam to get a good fit, but with this blouse I did something different.
I added a back pleat that started at the neckline and then releases right about half way over the broadest and humpiest part of my back. I know the picture looks quite wonky, but the blouse fits much better on me than it does on my dress form. I saw this technique on some garments at the last Craft Market in Santa Monica so I had to try it. Rather than take picture of a blouse with this pleat I drew this little picture.
I didn’t sew this exactly the way I have drawn it but nonetheless, I feel that I achieved a good fit. I think, too, I added a bit more visual interest, too, particularly, if the person standing behind me in line is a sewist!
My only dislike of the blouse is that the upper sleeves are a tad bit too small. I don’t think I have particularly large biceps but a squish more room would be nice. Of course, I would have discovered this if I had taken the time and sewn a muslin (or at the very least done some flat pattern measurements). Or even read the reviews of this blouse on Pattern Review.
Yes, well, another lesson learned: Always make a muslin. Another lesson I will probably choose to ignore, as well.