June 28, 2012 by Janna Roznos
It isn’t really jacket weather here in Southern California, but that didn’t stop me from sewing up this pattern:
When inspiration strikes – I have to act!
I was intrigued by this design when I saw it on Marcy Tilton’s website. It is modeled in an orange silk which I would have loved to have used, but didn’t because: 1) the silk fabric (which was available on the Marcy Tilton website) was beyond my sewing budget and 2) I didn’t want yet another garment in my wardrobe that required dry cleaning!
I purchased the pattern at JoAnn’s but not during one of their-Vogue–pattern–sales– for-$3.99. Nope not me – I paid full price for this pattern (JoAnn’s full price is 40% off). So I knew that if I didn’t sew this up RIGHT NOW this pattern would get lost in the depths of my sewing room.
But what fabric to use? Fortunately, the ASG Neighborhood Group- that I facilitate- had planned on going to the Fashion (Fabric) District in LA so I figured I would find some great fabric at Michael Levine’s and I did (love that store!). Perfect polyester fabric that is wash and wear!
So, on the summer solstice (the longest day of the year) I began work on this jacket.
After reading the two reviews of this pattern on PR I knew a muslin was in order, also I have sewn several other Marcy Tilton Vogue patterns and I have discovered the following discrepancies about them:
1) They are never rated very well. Usually they are rated as easy or average when (in my opinion) they should be rated as difficult or even expert. Why? These patterns usually have multiple pieces. The pattern pieces are oddly shaped and many times, the pattern pieces must be cut single layer and then some as double layer – which can become confusing. Some of the pieces are cut on the bias that required some additional precautions – although this pattern doesn’t have any bias pieces.
2) Vogue pattern guide sheets are sparse. I hesitate to call them ‘instructions’ because they don’t really provide instructions on how to sew the garment, but rather just guide the sewist along the sequence of putting the garment together.
3) Since there are so many pattern pieces there are always many dots/notches/circles/squares and such that need to be marked and when I say marked I don’t mean with a little snip in the seam allowance or a dash of chalk either! We are talking about some major tailor tacking here! For this jacket, it took me two evenings to just tailor tack all the pieces.
For my muslin I cut a straight 14. Usually a 14 is too big in the shoulders (and this one is) but I wanted this jacket to be a bit roomy so I went ahead with the 14. Initially I was going to add shoulder pads (and I still might).
The jacket pattern states that lining is required and I discovered while making the muslin that the lining is what finishes off the inside of the pockets! Yikes! I had planned on making this with NO lining – So . . .
I modified the pattern (specifically the gussets on the pockets) so that the pockets would be enclosed. It was an easy fix.
The buttons came from my stash – I purchased these at the Uptown Antique Street Fair last April and they really coordinated well with this fabric.
I have to say that I think this is the first time – in a really long time, that I have purchased pattern/fabric and notions (the buttons!) and haven’t let them sit and ferment in my sewing closet for years! This of course doesn’t mean that I don’t have lots of fabric to sew up nor that I am not adding to it, but it feels really good to get this project done.
Like I said when inspiration strikes – I got to run with it and with this garment I did!
I did go ahead and sew in the back pocket – which obviously is decorative (Oops! I forgot to rotate this picture!).
I also added a pocket on the sleeve, which now I think should have been bigger.
And, I forgot to rotate this picture, too. Hey! Two for two !
For the sleeves I made a turn back cuff.
This does require a bit more fabric but I like the look of this type of cuff.
A few observations about the pattern:
- The guide sheet is minimal and the hem/lining instructions are sparse.
- The button location (which I followed as per the pattern) is not the best, I think I should have altered it, but I didn’t and now I am stuck with it.
- The hood is much too small so it is just a decorative element not truly functional.
- The front seams (princess seams) are bulky because the pocket edge, gusset edge, facing edge front edge all come together. Not sure how I would remedy that.
- I should have played more with the stripes of the fabric, but didn’t. I think it goes back to so many pattern pieces (sort of got lost with all the pieces) and that I didn’t have any extra fabric to experiment with stripe placement.
So do I like it? Yes, I do. I have been wearing it for my morning walks with my dog. I will definitely be taking it to San Francisco when we go there in the Fall.
It is the perfect wash and wear jacket. I don’t know if I would make it again. It’s a pretty unique style of jacket.
My next sewing project is a skirt.
From this Burda Style June 2012.
I have already cut the muslin and now just need to whip it together 🙂