Progress on Burda 9/97 Blazer

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October 21, 2010 by Janna Roznos

Slowly making progress on my Burda blazer.  The fronts are sewn and I have tailored tacked the roll line and the button placement.

 I have also basted in the wigan for the back stay.  Still need to do some more trimming on the back seams.

I have practiced the bound buttonholes again and again.  I plan on using the jacket fabric for the bound buttonholes rather than the yoke fabric (the black wool).  The yoke fabric is just too thick to make a nice bound buttonholes.

I have tried many different methods for bound buttonholes but the best technique I have found is outlined in Kenneth King’s book Cool Couture. 

I also tried a new technique for stabilizing the back armscye, which is also from Kenneth King.  He wrote an article about staying the curve in the back armscye with a cut of cross grain muslin.    Here I have formed (with my iron) the cross grain muslin to fit the armscye.

And, here I have sewn it in.

Tonight I finished the bound buttonholes on the sleeve vent  and tomorrow night I will do the other sleeve vent.  And, here is all the buttons I have been auditioning.   I have eliminated the ones on the cards.  The large buttons will be for the front and the smaller ones along the sleeve vent.  I know they don’t match, but they are antique buttons from my stash that I want to use. 

 And since this blazer is ‘vintage’ well, is 1997 vintage?  Okay, so maybe the blazer isn’t ‘vintage’ but everything I am using (fabric/buttons/wigan/hymo interfacing) is from my stash.  The only item I need for this blazer is lining and I am going to Mood Fabrics on Saturday – so hopefully I will find some lovely silk charmeuse that will be perfect for lining – if not, I guess I will settle for lining fabric from JoAnn’s.


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