Progress on Burda 9/97 Blazer
21 Oct 2010 Leave a Comment
in pattern review Tags: Burda Blazer
Slowly making progress on my Burda blazer. The fronts are sewn and I have tailored tacked the roll line and the button placement.
I have also basted in the wigan for the back stay. Still need to do some more trimming on the back seams.
I have practiced the bound buttonholes again and again. I plan on using the jacket fabric for the bound buttonholes rather than the yoke fabric (the black wool). The yoke fabric is just too thick to make a nice bound buttonholes.
I have tried many different methods for bound buttonholes but the best technique I have found is outlined in Kenneth King’s book Cool Couture.
I also tried a new technique for stabilizing the back armscye, which is also from Kenneth King. He wrote an article about staying the curve in the back armscye with a cut of cross grain muslin. Here I have formed (with my iron) the cross grain muslin to fit the armscye.
And, here I have sewn it in.
Tonight I finished the bound buttonholes on the sleeve vent and tomorrow night I will do the other sleeve vent. And, here is all the buttons I have been auditioning. I have eliminated the ones on the cards. The large buttons will be for the front and the smaller ones along the sleeve vent. I know they don’t match, but they are antique buttons from my stash that I want to use.
And since this blazer is ‘vintage’ well, is 1997 vintage? Okay, so maybe the blazer isn’t ‘vintage’ but everything I am using (fabric/buttons/wigan/hymo interfacing) is from my stash. The only item I need for this blazer is lining and I am going to Mood Fabrics on Saturday – so hopefully I will find some lovely silk charmeuse that will be perfect for lining – if not, I guess I will settle for lining fabric from JoAnn’s.
Back to Sewing: My Next Project!
24 Sep 2010 Leave a Comment
in patterns Tags: Burda Blazer
Planning is done! Now on to the fun!
For this blazer I choose to use Burda pattern from Burda Magazine Issue September 1997. I picked this up at a quilt store for $1.00.
The pattern in No. 105:
I used my High Bust measurement in order to choose the correct size for me and I will be sewing up the 42. I have traced out the pattern and have added 5/8 seam allowance on all the pattern pieces.
Once I test this pattern in a muslin then I will alter the seam allowances to suit the garment (i.e. 1” at the side seams/approximately ¼” at the neck and armscye and ‘to be determined’ length at the hem). For tracing material, I used this block out paper.
The block out paper is readily available. I bought it at Home Depot for about $4.00. However, it isn’t quite as ‘see thru’ as the Sketch Paper which I buy at the art supply store, but I was able to make do.
Now I have pinned the garment together and have test fitted it on my dress form.
I can see where I am going to need to add (I always have to add in the hips).
Once I have made the alterations to the paper pattern I will be ready to cut the muslin/sew it up and test fit it again.
Also, a new acquisition to my sewing library is this book:
I have already tried reading it and so far I have discovered that it is the cure for my insomnia – ugh! But now, on to my muslin . . . but, of course, one last cat picture.
